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Thursday, June 5, 2014

Dome Construction

Hi everyone! Trouble's got a guest blogger today... the Boss! Here's Dad's technical breakdown on how to replace the end caps with awesome aluminum domes like mine. Enjoy!


In order to make installation of the dome panels simple and foolproof, pre-drill them. Layout the holes after stacking the panels; align two edges and clamp. Drill one hole at the the corner of the two aligned corners, install a cleco, check the alignment and drill, then install a second cleco. Drill 4 or 5 more holes spaced evenly along the long edge, installing a cleco as each hole is drilled; then you can go back and drill all the intermediate holes along the long edge, installing a cleco after each hole is drilled. I spaced the holes 50 mm apart 20 mm in from the edge. Drill only two sides; the long side and the short end for now. 
Drilling set up.
Now you are ready to start installing the dome. The short end will line up square with the framing bow in the roof. The long side predrilled holes will be the guide for your holes in the next panel you install. After the foam blocks of insulation are in place, hold up the first panel and make sure it is level or parallel to the floor, if the trailer is not setting level. 
Starting the first panel.
Start with the installation of the new panel above the existing wall panels. Lap the first wall panel at least 30 mm; draw a line 30 mm down from the top edge on the wall panel; level or parallel to the floor. Using the pre-drilled first hole in the short end of the panel, drill only one hole in the roof channel when the edge of the new panel is on the line drawn on the existing wall panel, drill the second hole into the roof channel, insert a cleco, and you should be aligned with the floor and the framing bow in the trailer roof. If it is slightly out of square, go with the line on the wall panel parallel to the floor. Push the panel up against the foam insulation with your shoulder if your height allows; otherwise, use a step stool. Alternatively, have a friend help while drilling the second hole in the roof channel.  

You are now ready to start drilling the long edge holes, starting at the roof channel and progressing down toward the window one hole at a time. I was able to do this by myself, but it it five times faster to have a helper insert the clecos and help make sure you are in alignment. Drill one hole along the long side at a time and insert a cleco in EVERY HOLE as you go - it is imperative! Only drill one hole at a time with a cleco in each hole before drilling the next hole! Do not skip even one hole or the panel will not keep tight to the insulation. This is a lot easier than it sounds, believe me, and you will be happy and proud of the finished dome - guaranteed!
Overlapping panels one by one.
Pre-drilling and cleco's are a MUST. The clecos and the pliers to install them are available at online stores including Wicks and Aircraft Spruce. Be sure to shop around, the price can vary substantially.  I recommend you buy about 100 or so. It is amazing how fast they disappear as you put them in place. The reason for using so many is that I recommend not installing any rivets until all panels are in place. Another invaluable tool to have is the pneumatic rivet puller from Harbor Freight if you have a compressor. If doing extensive re-skinning, you should purchase the electric shears that look like an electric drill motor with scissors attached for about $45.00 on sale.They are all well worth the money in saving blisters and time. 

You can install about three panels and then remove every other cleco and move them ahead if you run short because you did not believe me when I recommend you should purchase 100. Be careful when doing that- things get out of alignment quickly. If you take the panels down for any reason (wiring not in place, etc.), be sure to number each panel in sequence. They will not fit even though the predrilled holes were used to drill each adjacent panel as it was installed. If you do take them down and they were put back up in sequence, you may have to use something like an ice pick and your shoulder pushing hard to get the holes to align again.

When ready to rivet, put ALL clecos in the two adjacent panels you are working on and only remove one at a time as you work from the top down to the windows and the rivets should slip into the aligned holes by hand. If still having difficulties, first try the ice pick and shoulder while wiggling the ice pick. Absence success, run the 1/8" drill through again.
Putting in the final rivets.
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5 comments:

  1. UnknownJune 9, 2015 at 10:05 AM

    Wow great post! A few questions as am about to take this on myself..

    1) What were the dimensions of each panel, how many total per endcap?

    2) Did you stack all panels then predrill?

    3) Just to be clear, you said make a mark 30 mm down from the upper edge of adjacent wall and have the first panel touch it. What did you do about the triangular gap I see in the photo?

    4) Did you use Olympic rivets?

    5) How did you clean up the area around the window for a clean look after riveting?


    Thanks Again, Matt

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. UnknownJune 9, 2015 at 11:00 AM

      Also, why did you start high enough up the wall to leave that gap? Why not just start low enough that there is no gap between the first section and the lower wall?

      Did you custom cut your center piece to fit the gap as it appeared once the two sides came together?

      Delete
    2. UnknownJuly 1, 2015 at 9:01 AM

      Hi Matt! Thanks for stopping by. Dad responded to this one:

      The panels are very easy to install even by yourself. The secret is to have them sheared uniformly. You will need: 1. 10 each 11.5” X 51” 2. 1 each 11 X 51 made of .032 5052 aluminum I used 6061 t-6 because that is what I had on hand and is less expensive but stiffer- does not dent as easy as 5052 in my opinion. That is for each end so a 12’ sheet of material will leave very little waste. If you can only sores 8” sheets I think you will need at least three sheets.

      I laid out and drilled one panel, used clecos to secure ( clecos not long enough for more than five sheets at once) the other sheets, five at a time and drilled them all at once. Use the pattern sheet for all other panels measure once correctly and all will look very professional.

      There will be no gaps if you have all sheets pre drilled along one long edge and one end, I promise.

      I used Harbor Freight rivets you will need the selection of long ones in certain situations. I used their air rivet gun, in fact I bought a second one so I could leave one at home and my daughters house in Pacifica. To make the head of the rivets look domed take out the little tip, heat until red with a propane torch (like Harbor Freight sells for $34.0), that softens it, then with a rotary file grind a depression in the end of the tip, presto a domed rivet. The Olympics are saved for use on the exterior of the trailer, too hard to clip and file the stems off.

      I used aviation snips, blood, blisters, and the little hand held belt sander from H.F. With care, a steady hand, and patience it works like a charm. And the fact the window screen/trim covers a multitude of sins….jagged edges.

      Delete
  2. UnknownJuly 6, 2015 at 5:08 PM

    Wow thanks!

    Quick question, can you clarify on the trick to make pop rivets look like buck rivets? What is the 'little tip' you are referring to?

    Also, any tips on accurately shearing the metal? I have the HF pneumatic shears, and while they work fine no way I can replicate them perfectly by hand with them.

    ReplyDelete
  3. UnknownJuly 6, 2015 at 6:23 PM

    One more question, in your photo "starting the first panel" there is a large gap at the bottom. Why? Why not start the panel with no gap at the bottom?

    ReplyDelete