The Lovers, the Streamers, and Me

Hey guys!  So to take a break from the technical, I wanted to show you my pretty floors! Well, eventually they'll be covered up too, but I love this color. It's definitely going to make another appearance in the near future.

Martha Stewart paint - 'Living Palmetto'

Basically what I have now is a blank slate, which is awesome and intimidating. I liked most of the original floorplan of the trailer since it was pretty functional, so I'm going to go with a lot of the basic layout in the kitchen and bedroom area. But there are a million little details that make it a puzzle rebuilding everything. Cramming a house worth of living space into an efficient and aesthetically pleasing 28' ain't easy! Now the fun part, a little trailer design inspiration:

Lots of ideas.

Future color palette.

I love bright colors, warm wood, clean lines, thoughtful design, and everything handmade. The trailer is coming together, but sometimes in unexpected ways. When I first got in Trouble I thought "Great! A coat of paint and we'll be ready to rock and roll!" (Hold your laughs please.) Now with these sleek new aluminum walls, there is no way paint is going to cover them up. The cabinets and bulkheads will have paint, however.  

Another thing to consider aside from colors and layout is function. Many Streamers just do weekend trips with the whole family bunking in their trailer. Others are "fulltimers" and use it as a way to travel while remotely working or after retirement. Some want to stay entirely off grid and mount solar power or bring generators to be able to "boondock" or camp without any hookups for extended periods of time out in the boonies. All are great options for different needs.

My goal with Trouble is to have a very adaptable but very livable trailer. For example, compromises have to be made as far as sleeping arrangements. I don't need to sleep six with double bunks and a sofa that turns into a bed, but I do need storage space and a comfortable bed that doesn't need to be pulled out or converted each night and morning. (Is that me being lazy?) Some consider a wet bath (where the sink and toilet are in the shower space as one unit) a great idea to save space, but I'd really rather have the luxury of a separate shower. While it is important to think of resale value, customizing it to fit your needs is part of the fun of remodeling a vintage trailer- and the only way to justify the bother!

When living in a trailer, you are dealing with very limited resources. Well, we all are since we live on a finite planet, but I digress. To illustrate: there might not be access to shore power, batteries have a limit of power storage, the LP tanks can run out of propane, the sun may not shine on your solar panels, and generators need gas to run. For this reason, it's a good idea to double up on options. A heat pump or a plug-in heater is a great option if you have shore power (110v or 220v) but if you're running on battery and propane, a furnace is the way to go. Fridges come in combinations of 1 to 3 power sources: 12v, 110v, and propane. (Remember propane needs to be vented though!) Things like the lights and the vents traditionally run on 12v. The 110v electrical outlets like the ones in traditional houses will work if the trailer is plugged into shore power, a generator is running, or you have an inverter. Now I put in a converter (110v to 12v to charge the batteries) not an inverter (12v to 110v) which is much more expensive. What this means in everyday life is that without hookups I could use my propane stove, but not my toaster oven, blender, or crock pot. It's all about having options and planning ahead.

The key to making these decisions and compromises is research and being realistic about what your plans are for the trailer. Would you like a camping trailer or a fulltiming trailer? Completely original or with modern updates? Would you be traveling far off the beaten path or where there will be trailer hookups? Answering questions like these will make finding the solution easier.

Oh no, I just realized I've hijacked my own "fun" post with more technical stuff... hmm... Until next time guys. Keep on keepin' on!

They're Fantastic!

Hi everyone! This past week I gathered up enough courage to climb up on Trouble's roof to knock out some leaks and replace three vents. It's intimidating because in addition to being a round metallic surface, you can't put your weight just anywhere. Lines of rivets like cross sections show where there is a support rib underneath that can hold your weight. The rest of the roof is only a thin skin of sheet metal that can be easily dented. A way to get around this is placing a wooden board on the ribs to create a workspace.

Smiling but petrified!

The old vents left something to be desired. They leaked and all three were different. One opened to the front, one opened straight up, and the last opened to the back and was the only one that had a fan. Upon further inspection on the roof I could see why they were leaking- caulking on top of leaks is not a solution! No worries, I ordered three Fantastic Fans for the upgrade!

Kitchen vent from the inside.

Exterior getting rid of old gunk.

Peekaboo!

Drilling out the rivets after the gunk removal.

Old vent frame on its way out.

Front vent plus leaky TV antenna opening.

Multiple lines of caulking defense.

New caulked and riveted support for new vent.

Nice new vent installed!

Cool blue tint inside when they're closed.

Next step will be getting them hooked up. I'm very pleased with how they're built and how they look from the exterior and interior. These let in a lot of light and I'm happy to get rid of more leaks! Until next time- happy travels!

It's the Little Things in Life

Hi everyone! Today I have a bunch of little (but very cool) things to mention.

One of my recent purchases must be the best investment under $100 so far- Stabilizing jacks! We installed two in the front and two in the back. The "stabilizers" I previously had were just that- to stabilize and not to lift. With my fancy new jacks I can level the trailer on uneven ground and I could potentially change a tire if need be. This means I can have a dance party in the trailer without wrecking all the fine china! If i had fine china in there... or dance parties...

20" lift & 6,500 lbs. capacity!

Another fun detail for the trailer is of less weighty concern (buh dum shhh) but will look great. The boss taught me how to use a lathe to machine fancy handles for the lever to open the windows. The originals were plastic and we used aluminum.

Getting set up.

Original plastic, finished aluminum, and blank.

I also had a small visitor the other day. This poor guy flew in, and in a panic to find a way out in a world full of windows and reflective surfaces, he flew right into a wall and got a bit of a headache. He took about a ten minute breather and then flew back to his family in the trees.

Chillin in my hand.

Isn't he cute!

And last but not least a sneak peak of a future post... three brand new Fantastic Fans just arrived! While I'm a bit nervous about climbing up on the roof and trying to get all three of them in and watertight, I'm sure they'll live up to their name (once I build up my courage to install them).

Special delivery for Trouble!

Sometimes the humble and small projects make the end product really special. Until next time guys!

The Good, the Bad, and the Leaky

The windows have proven to be the best and worst part of the trailer. They were the worst (leaking and ugly) and hopefully they will be the best (clean and tinted). These are dual pain... I mean paned units that have deteriorated solar film in between.  To fix that, I have to take them out entirely, disassemble them, tint them, put them back together, and rivet the assembly back into the trailer.

Hmm... not so pretty.

Kinda icky huh?

Messy goop sealant.

Taking out the window.

Existing broken pane "fix".

Cleaning the Stream.

Now I have no background in windows or tinting, so I bought a roll of 15% automotive tint with some feet to spare for any big mistakes. A couple of YouTube videos later, I got started on the first pane. First step is do a rough cut from the roll a little larger than the window. Make sure the glass is as spotless as possible... any dust no matter how invisible it may seem will in fact show. There's a protective sheet on the sticky side of the tint so you'll want to peel that off. Use a spray bottle full of water and a smidge of liquid baby soap to get the glass evenly covered as well as the sticky side of the tinting. This will give you a little wiggle room to position it without it clinging. Then place the sticky side of the tinting on the wet glass and use a credit card to squeegee the water out starting at the center and working towards the edges. Does it look good? Trim around the edges with a razor blade and pat yourself on the back!

There you have it!

Meanwhile, I've also been working on polishing the window frames. This is seriously time consuming, and very dirty and messy. I used two different sandpaper grits then finished off with a metal polish I got down at the local auto store.

*Oooooh*

*Ahhhh*

So worth it!

Aluminitis!  Is there a cure?

Installation isn't so easy either. The tinted side will be on the inside facing side of the interior glass in the sandwich, and a strip of butyl needs to go between the panes to keep the spacing. Then a gasket has to go around it to seal the sandwich up. Then slide the whole thing back into the aluminum channel and rivet it up! Don't drop that glass!

Waiting patiently...

Lots of goop.

Excellent squeeze out for a good seal!

Lookin good!

What has really worked well for me is going around the exterior gasket with marine sealant to prevent leaks after the window is installed. Now, once you've done all of the above, repeat like fifty times because you're crazy and wanted a trailer with a bazillion windows. Sigh... Until next time!

Dome Construction

Hi everyone! Trouble's got a guest blogger today... the Boss! Here's Dad's technical breakdown on how to replace the end caps with awesome aluminum domes like mine. Enjoy!


In order to make installation of the dome panels simple and foolproof, pre-drill them. Layout the holes after stacking the panels; align two edges and clamp. Drill one hole at the the corner of the two aligned corners, install a cleco, check the alignment and drill, then install a second cleco. Drill 4 or 5 more holes spaced evenly along the long edge, installing a cleco as each hole is drilled; then you can go back and drill all the intermediate holes along the long edge, installing a cleco after each hole is drilled. I spaced the holes 50 mm apart 20 mm in from the edge. Drill only two sides; the long side and the short end for now. 

Drilling set up.

Now you are ready to start installing the dome. The short end will line up square with the framing bow in the roof. The long side predrilled holes will be the guide for your holes in the next panel you install. After the foam blocks of insulation are in place, hold up the first panel and make sure it is level or parallel to the floor, if the trailer is not setting level. 

Starting the first panel.

Start with the installation of the new panel above the existing wall panels. Lap the first wall panel at least 30 mm; draw a line 30 mm down from the top edge on the wall panel; level or parallel to the floor. Using the pre-drilled first hole in the short end of the panel, drill only one hole in the roof channel when the edge of the new panel is on the line drawn on the existing wall panel, drill the second hole into the roof channel, insert a cleco, and you should be aligned with the floor and the framing bow in the trailer roof. If it is slightly out of square, go with the line on the wall panel parallel to the floor. Push the panel up against the foam insulation with your shoulder if your height allows; otherwise, use a step stool. Alternatively, have a friend help while drilling the second hole in the roof channel.  

You are now ready to start drilling the long edge holes, starting at the roof channel and progressing down toward the window one hole at a time. I was able to do this by myself, but it it five times faster to have a helper insert the clecos and help make sure you are in alignment. Drill one hole along the long side at a time and insert a cleco in EVERY HOLE as you go - it is imperative! Only drill one hole at a time with a cleco in each hole before drilling the next hole! Do not skip even one hole or the panel will not keep tight to the insulation. This is a lot easier than it sounds, believe me, and you will be happy and proud of the finished dome - guaranteed!

Overlapping panels one by one.

Pre-drilling and cleco's are a MUST. The clecos and the pliers to install them are available at online stores including Wicks and Aircraft Spruce. Be sure to shop around, the price can vary substantially.  I recommend you buy about 100 or so. It is amazing how fast they disappear as you put them in place. The reason for using so many is that I recommend not installing any rivets until all panels are in place. Another invaluable tool to have is the pneumatic rivet puller from Harbor Freight if you have a compressor. If doing extensive re-skinning, you should purchase the electric shears that look like an electric drill motor with scissors attached for about $45.00 on sale.They are all well worth the money in saving blisters and time. 

You can install about three panels and then remove every other cleco and move them ahead if you run short because you did not believe me when I recommend you should purchase 100. Be careful when doing that- things get out of alignment quickly. If you take the panels down for any reason (wiring not in place, etc.), be sure to number each panel in sequence. They will not fit even though the predrilled holes were used to drill each adjacent panel as it was installed. If you do take them down and they were put back up in sequence, you may have to use something like an ice pick and your shoulder pushing hard to get the holes to align again.

When ready to rivet, put ALL clecos in the two adjacent panels you are working on and only remove one at a time as you work from the top down to the windows and the rivets should slip into the aligned holes by hand. If still having difficulties, first try the ice pick and shoulder while wiggling the ice pick. Absence success, run the 1/8" drill through again.

Putting in the final rivets.

New Walls (Part 1)

Hey there! Since I've put up insulation, the next step are the interior aluminum panels. I entitled this Part 1 since there is going to be a part 2, maybe part 3, part 4.... Anywho... a short list of lessons learned so far, pictures, and a recap at the end:

1.  There is no such thing as a straight line in a vintage trailer. Forget that concept- it doesn't exist. Acceptance is the first step to construction.

2.  Invest in clecos. They are well worth it! Consider it an investment for your sanity.

3.  Measure fifty times... cut once. And cut the window openings etc. with an extra bit in your favor so you can trim it down.

4.  If you have long straight lines planned out, use a sheet metal shear if you have access to one. Another option is asking the supplier if they could cut down the sheet you are buying to specific lengths. Maxxmetals in San Carlos were very helpful with this and have a delivery service. Double win!


5.  Invest in tin snips for hand cutting metal. There's quite a selection available for left, right, and straight cuts, even 90 degree snips. (I feel a post just about tools is in the future.)

6.  Have a partner when planning, measuring, cutting, and riveting. Talk about what you want, how you're laying out the cut and rivet lines, how the lap is going to work, potential issues, what to look for, positioning of cut outs... everything. Ask lots of questions about each other's method and plan- this doesn't mean they are questioning your genius! It simply means you need to be paddling in the same direction or else you're up a creek. Four eyes are better than two.

Impossible without Clecos!

Cutting the Vista View windows.

Looking great!

Drilling rivet holes.

Wow!!  Look at that beautiful front dome!

Starting on the rear dome...

Getting there...

Completed rear dome!!

Future shower wall.

Putting the walls up has been a serious challenge and has involved some blood letting. I'll keep posting progress pictures as we keep moving forward. The domes are a complete post of their own... and I have a surprise! A technical, step by step breakdown of how to build your own awesome aluminum dome is on its way! Stay tuned...

Demolition Derby

Hey guys! Hope this post finds you well. I have quite a bit of updating to do... let's just say one thing is leading to another and I'm ending up with a gutted trailer:

No kitchen...

No closet...

No bathroom wall...

No bed...

No bathroom...

I feel like I should post something constructive after all of that! So now that it's bare bones, no fiberglass insulation in the walls, it's quite literally a tin can.

Oops, wrong tin can...

There are many strongly held opinions about choice of insulation, and in the end, I went with R-Tech 4' x 8' styrofoam boards with a metallic sheet on one side from Lowe's. The fact that it's 1.5" thick works well in the 1.5" walls since it helps get the spacing right for the interior aluminum skins and the future front and rear domes. So now I guess it's a styrofoam cup in a tin can. To get it to fit in a curve, however, requires a little ingenuity.   

Hard at work.

Hidden mosaic!

So I'm finally hitting the limit of what I can remove and I have to start replacing! The end layout will probably be very similar to what it was... just more awesomer. Keep checking back for updates and keep on truckin!